Beiträge von lidsta

It’s about time…to get back to the Maho and get it working.

Let’s just say my time was needed elsewhere this past year.

To pick up from where I left of.

Trying to source a HAWE RC1 check valve from the Swedish supplier (no luck in getting a response, neither by phone or email) as well as from different hydraulic stores without any luck, my enthusiasm kind of died a bit.

Any one willing to sell me one or post a link to where I can order one would be more then helpful.

Was just about to write that I am interested in a working “tool changer HAWE valve”. (Like the ones marked i.e. 5Y1 pictured above.)

But went out to the garage and pressed both valves and now both of them behave the same, returning their rods without the tool changer one sticking.

This was without any hydraulic pressure applied since the hydraulic system is in pieces. It feels way more promising then I remembered it though…but I’m probably wrong. 🙄

I don’t really believe in magic self mending… 😁

Let’s start with the RC1 valve.

Thanks in advance!

Ooo, dear god!

A zip-file maybe...

You guys are equally part hero’s and crazy I think.

Digging in to the cards and redesign them!

For a mechanical engineer this is not only totally impossible to understand, it’s also scary.

Reading with interest...even the parts above my head.

Spamming my own thread here. Sorry!

It’s RC1 in my machine.

G1/4” thread.

To be able to sleep I removed it right away.

Hopefully my local supplier have something in stock already tomorrow.

Tomi, noticed that part about damaging the valve as well... 🙄🙈

Don’t like the smell of hydraulic oil. I like castor oil. 😁

Florian, that’s the plan. After I have taken it apart AGAIN to see what thread/size it is. 🤦‍♂️

Keep your fingers crossed, this is the solution.

Don’t say that Tomi!

I appreciate every second all of you put in to think about MY problems, trying to get me going again.

And you are totally correct. It looks a bit strange IRL as well. The metal membrane can be moved around a bit. Don’t know if this is normal though.

Finally did what I should have done in the first place. Google for Hawe spare parts.

https://downloads.hawe.com/6/9/D6969R-en.pdf

Here’s the one I need I think...but since I’m an idiot I did not remembered to take note of what size I have...

So one more dig in to the damn oil.

But not today.

Not knowing really why...but removed and went through both Hawe valves/solenoids to see if I could find anything strange.

Reassembled. Swapped positions.

Same behavior.

After thinking about how the system is intended to work, I’m pretty sure that it has to be the check valve. Or maybe maybe a leaking Hawe valve.

So, testing the present, or finding a replacement, check valve. Wonder where one can be found?

And make sure that the accumulator is ok just because...

That’s the logic thing to do. Not just running around hoping it to mend itself by magic.

Zitat von florian

go get yourself a pressure gauge and fit it between the pumpe and the accumulator and make measuring

thats what I'm gonna do on Monday

That’s the first thing I installed when I bought the machine many years ago, to be able to set the correct pressures.

Now it just tells me things or wrong and the pressure drops of in a way it shouldn’t.

Zitat von Tomi#128

So if i read it rigth...this is geting worser over the time period...so could be you have some leck in your hydraulics...or check valve for pressure (over 80 bar)

is something wrong...perhaps spring is broken or stick cause "old" oil and dirt...really don´t know exactly what valve we are talking ...sorry didn´t done until now...

if you disassembled

you see what a spring it is?? or take the other valve apart and check for spring dimension..perhaps we can orginize something and send you,

but normaly you should get some spring in sweden,go to landmachine mecanics,they have much ..normaly...

Hope my post can help you somehow...

regard Tomi

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Exactly. Worse by the day.

So some type of leak it must be.

Having limited time, and knowledge, to put in to this, everything takes a bit longer then one like.

A separate check valve to try would be very nice, but not sure if they sell as a single part? Have to look that up.

Testing the existing one would also be great, but not sure how to within a reasonable amount of work put in to it. But have to come up with something here.

Tried last week to disassemble the valve and solenoid unit, but didn’t want to put to much force at it, worried that I break something, as I’m not sure if/how they intend to come apart.

Anyone that knows how to disassemble these units, feel free to chime in. I’m very eager to know.

Swap places between the two is one thing we discussed yesterday, to try to pinpoint where the problem is.

Was told that it’s more common that the valve (piston) seized in the bore than a actual return spring breaking. Sounds plausible I guess.

Hope to have some good updates on this in not a to far future.

Thanks for the support.

Have found out that the translation function in the pc/phone browser works really well.

Thank you Tomi and Florian.

Thank was my plan. To maybe find something strange looking, a bit of cleaning and then with a little bit of luck it just works.

Have done so with other things before with success...but not today.

In the past the machine did not behave like this. The pressure was held stable after first start up, motor not running, and then if releasing the table or change tool it started when the pressure dropped below the set threshold value of approx 80-90 bar iirc.

Only occasionally, after a long time, the motor started if pressure dropped.

That, not able to hold pressure, was something that got worse over time though. And here I am.

My Hawe valve for the tool change seems to have lost its return spring and act sticky.

Wonder where I can find a new one without breaking the bank? (Picture to identify what style it is.)

The accumulator may also be the issue. Having sit still for several years I guess that the pressure is gone and/or the membrane have seen it’s best days. The weird M28x1,5 thread prevents me from checking the pressure myself or with the help from someone local. Have to send it away.

Guess that’s the next thing to do. Before digging deep in too the hydraulic actuators...a situation I don’t know if I really have the stamina/will to put my self in.

Think I found it. The check valve.

The metal screen can be unscrewed with the help of a light tap.

Behind it the valve sits. This can also be removed.

Of blowing through it it works as suspected. But that’s not a very reliable test.

Guess it’s just to clean everything and put it back together.

Probably, my problem is to be found elsewhere.

Dug in to here instead after realizing, guessing here, that I was on the wrong path.

Or maybe I still are.

Trying to understand how this valve works...but...hmmm

Hi all,

Let’s see if anyone reads this section and can help me out here.

I have now removed my valve pack from on top of the hydraulic motor.

Today’s mission is to check the status of the check valve from the pump to see if that’s why my pressure drops almost immediately after it runs a couple of times and then shuts the machine down.

My guess was that the check valve could be found and accessed by this Allen screw. But it won’t move and I almost striped it trying.

Maybe I need to remove the entire plate to get to what I want?

I really hope all this mess pays off.

Zitat von Tomi#128

I hope i understand your question well..so you have to disconect solderbridge between (in my case "Lötbrücke" 334 and 480) and then connect your swich on connector 334 and 480 on the board... dont know is that right in english ...

Is that your question??

If you folow that ,nothing can heapens cause you simulate solderbridge now with your switch...

You have to press buton on the panel first..nothing heapens..then press your new swich and tool will release...if you press your new swich only,nothing heapens,cause you didn´t get signal from panel to release tool...so in theory...didn´t check until now..

No guarantee from my side until i didn´t check on my machine!!!

Give a reply if my answer was ,what you want to know..

pasted-from-clipboard.png

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Thank you!

It all makes sense now when you mention that one has to first press the button at the controls. Then the new added one.

(In a perfect world I would like to skip the need to press the controller button first... I guess Florian’s hack works that way?)

Watched the video linked above.

That is VERY VERY scary!!!

In no way I would like to over ride any safety features involving tool release while the spindle is running.

Tada!

*can’t upload the picture, showing STP334 - STP480 in my documentation, from my phone*

One stupid question though...

In addition to the extra button...do you need to do anything else to “get the 5K1 in the loop” the right way?

Yes. I’m a mechanical engineer. Amps, ohms and volts are pure evil.

I know to well what you mean with to many other things in parallel

And I still have my check valve to start with...

Zitat von Tomi#128

Hi Andreas,

Check your electric sheet ,you have one?... with toll release function, could be the same way to add switch for tool release...

Yes, I have the electrical diagrams and for sure will have a look...now when I know what to look for.

The pins mentioned above on the 28A1 I’m almost 100% sure I have the same. So that’s tempting to start with.

Please let us know if you have any success with that solution.

Otherwise, we have the Florian-hack.

This is pure gold!

If it works for my old /9 I don’t know. But now (read: sometime in the far future) I will be way better of when trying to (not) fry something.

I would really like a tool release button at the mill head.

Zitat von r4z3r

i think with mc10 you can set from c4 to c3 than the b axis must not be referenced.

And you must restart the machine

Yes, that was my initial thought too.

And I think that would work.

When time comes, one has to try different ways out until it behaves as you like...or should I say “Behaves at all”.

I guess there’s drawbacks doing it in certain ways and probably a preferred way.

Thanks for chiming in.

Wow!

Florian, or anyone else.

I didn’t know that it was possible to set a axis to not reference drive.

I will have to look through the MC-list to figure that one out.

While I think about possible drawbacks with that approach. Or with a smaller reference window...if any?

That was quick!

Good ideas Florian, some I have thought of my self, some new ideas.

Helmut, that is very kind of you to share all this knowledge with us. I’m very grateful.

On my 500C I have the 400 mm dia NC-table. (B axis.)

When starting the machine you do the reference search etc etc.

The B-axis function is not always something you use. And if you have something “big” in the machine, the B-axis ref/homing can be a real problem. If, let’s say, you stop machining for the day and like to continue the next. Having both parts/stock and fixtures spinning around, trying to knock everything in its way down, including the machine itself, can be “interesting”.

What’s the best and most convenient way to turn the B-axis off, after of course tramming it in, and then keeping it locket?

Is it as simple as set “Enable axis” MC to 0? (Is there even one?)

Or is it more involved, starting out with setting number of axis and then change other MC as well?

Thanks in advance!

Andreas

Thank you everyone for the warm welcoming!

I have already gained a lot of information here that I have tried to find for years.

Super!

I guess my contribution to the site will be a bit on/off due to...life. But I will try to post questions and findings I do that might be of help to others.

I’m born more to the south but now I live in the “middle” of the country.

My 2-stroke endeavors are not that spectacular really. But a fun hobby. I like the thinkering part and have a very old Husqvarna, 50cc, 1 hp, moped with an engine known for all its weaknesses and resistance to tuning. Why make it easy...

Hopefully the Maho can help out here, making power parts.

Next up: Check valves. *cringe*

/Andreas

Hi all,

Sorry for writing in English, but unfortunately I don't know German.

I understand a word here and there though and pictures are, thankfully, international.

The use of the machine is mostly to let me, as a mechanical design engineer, get a better understanding of the machining process as its so influenced by the design, dimensioning, tolerances etc etc of parts to be made.

I'm also big in to everything motorsport and would like to make parts for different projects.

Especially 2-stroke engines are something that's close to me.

I have just recently, much because of this site, got back to my machine after having it sitting still for way to long. (Several years!)

So its a lot like starting over, relearning everything again.

As said in the title I have a /9 on my machine at the moment.

A rather old machine, but with the NC table...but no MPG.

I do have some different /10 controllers I would like to use. The problem though is that I have the very old red color connectors at the IO-card etc.

But according to old experts a combo of my different cards together with the correct SW level will work.

Florian is very skeptic to this approach but have been very helpful providing both knowledge and code files to try.

First things first though.

Get the machine up and running again.

Managed to do that, sort of, after switching the phases to the power supply...after days trying to find a problem in the e-chain not present.

Now a have a rapid falling hydraulic pressure. Hopefully something simple.

Will check the first check valve from the hydraulic motor as my next adventure.

If all goes well the plan is to gather the right parts, e-proms and knowledge to try the /10 upgrade in the future.

I will probably have many many stupid questions along the way.

/Andreas

Sweden

Great to see this section.

Hopefully it will be filled with a lot of useful stuff, like the rest of this forum.